Coddington Chardonnay, Kumeu River 2022

Sliced apple, apple, sea shell and crushed stone aromas follow through to a full body yet it’s tight and structured with an impressive fruit, acidic and phenolic balance giving it focus and intensity. Drinkable but better in a few years. Screw cap.

The 2022 Coddington Chardonnay leads with lemon balm/oil, green-olive brine, crème brûlée top (a.k.a. scorched brown sugar), peach fuzz, and an abundance of orchard fruit. In the mouth, kiwi fruit acidity (a.k.a. juicy, sweet, tart) defines the perimeters of the flavors and beckons you in for another, closer look. It's very, very good, a distinct wine, pure, all aspects delineated and deliberate. I like this. It feels orderly and mathematical. If the wine had a sound, it would be a straight-pace bowl at the wickets, one flying out of stumps (name a better sound, I'll wait). It's not that immediately obvious, though; it builds and takes a while to assert itself, and I like that too. Very good. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. 2023 - 2037

Very pale straw. Rich and quite intense. With some savour and vibrancy. Lots of grip.Very bright fruit with good appeal and perhaps a bit less obviously sweet than in the past. 13.5%. Drink 2024 – 2030

Coddington is on a brilliant run of form in recent vintages, closing the gap to Hunting Hill and Maté's Vineyard qualitatively. Pale lemon in the glass with a boisterous nose of orchard fruits, pineapple and peach crumble, it is intense and full of character. This follows on the palate, which is concentrated yet deftly balanced. Ripe waves of orchard fruit are matched by tangy acidity. With a texture like satin and succulent fruit at the core, it has just the right hit of baking spices and wood smoke. This is a delicious rendition of this single vineyard wine, and really showcases its individual personality. Powerful and long to the finish, this is the essence of Coddington.