Chassagne Montrachet La Romanée, Lamy-Caillat 2017

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is brilliant, offering up a complex bouquet of mandarin, ripe pears and peaches mingled with almond paste, fresh pastry and nutmeg. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's multidimensional and complete, with a layered core, considerable concentration and a long, chalky finish. This is a touch more dramatic and extrovert than this year's Caillerets, but the two wines are of very similar ultimate quality.

Full deep pale gold colour. Weight and class to the nose. Some new oak shows, but complementary to the fruit. Very slightly mentholated too, swelling fruit across the whole piece, flowing generously through to the finish. Very persistent aftertaste and already agreeably multi-layered.