The 1973 from St Michel is all about lift and precision. A sense of old books comes together with sultana, dried fig and confit citrus. This follows on the palate, which has just a touch of rancio character but is fine and smoky. Bright acidity is reminiscent of fine Madeira, but the oily expansive nature of the palate is generous despite the fine framework. Long and intense with an unerring freshness despite its age, this is a delicious Vin Doux to drink on its own, with cheese or lighter desserts. Excellent.