Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots, Clos de la Chapelle, Duc de Magenta, Louis Jadot 2017

A candidate for extended cellaring in Jadot's range this year is the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Domaine du Duc de Magenta), a beautifully incisive wine that meets the high expectations I formed when I tasted it from barrel a year ago. Opening in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, peach, fresh pastry and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and youthfully tight-knit, with fabulous structural tension and a racy spine of acidity. Bottled under Diam 30, this tensile but concentrated Morgeot will really begin to sing in six or seven years.

Sweet nose of crème pâtissière. Rather opulent and fulsome. Verging on grand cru weight. For those looking for a grand cru experience at a premier cru price, this could be a good bet. Quite long, and fresher than the Bâtard.