Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, Penfolds 2020

The Barossa has the ability to convey a sense of place, dirt and air in the glass. The trick is to not get in the way—a cooper does not terroir make. Despite not being the dominant region in this blend (for specificity: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Clare Valley), the Barossa makes a potent contribution. Here, in the 2020 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, the concentrated, dry and warm vintage is on show and provides a splay of earthy, dense fruit, stretched over a framework of savory tannin. Despite Penfolds's reputation for big tannins/big oak, the fruit here overpowers both and streams out over the long finish. The heart of Barossa is here. Very good. Will get better.

A homage to warmer-region, South Australian shiraz, this has a rich and smooth delivery of ripe blackberries and red-to-dark plums on the nose. The wine has taken its 12 months in American oak (16% new) well and truly in its stride. Plush and suave mouth-feel here, this is effortless and a style that sits right in the Penfolds sweet spot. A blend of McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Clare Valley. Drink or hold. Screw cap.