Xisto Cru Branco, Luis Seabra 2020

The 2020 Branco "Xisto Cru" is 70% Rabigato with Códega, Gouveio, Viosinho and Donzelinho Branco filling out the rest in small amounts. It was aged for 12 months in used French barriques and comes in at 12.6% alcohol. Often my favorite white from Seabra, this is probably that again. It's on the lighter side but surprisingly perky, with a fair share of power. Then, you realize it has coated your palate while the fruit lingers nicely. This should age well, Luis suggesting 15 years or so. I think he is right, but as he says, neither he nor I can prove it given the limited track records. This pricey white is certainly terrific now, with some room to improve.

Pale straw colour in the glass. The complex aroma is reminiscent of white Rhone, deeply savoury and waxy yet with an oily citrus and white floral note. The palate is textural and rich, yet with much more acidic tang than would be found in the Rhone. Zesty and fine, with lemon rind, poached stone fruits and more beeswax on the finish. As impressive texturally as it is in flavour.