CDP Le Vieux Donjon, Le Vieux Donjon (Lucien Michel) 2003

The powerful 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape comes closest in character to the 1990 (which is still drinking beautifully). Its dark ruby/plum/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of resiny pine forest interwoven with creme de cassis, black cherries, melted licorice, and smoky herbs. In the mouth, gamy, meaty flavors emerge along with black currants, cherries, and a hint of the sushi wrapper called nori. Full, rich, and moderately tannic, this 2003 requires another 1-3 years of bottle age, and should keep for 12-15 years.

A very strong vintage for this traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape, the 2003, a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault, has a deep ruby/plum/purple color and a big sweet nose of dried Provencal herbs, licorice, seaweed, and spice box. The wine is massively concentrated, relatively high in alcohol by the standards here (15% plus on their component parts), and has a long, concentrated, chewy finish with high tannin and equally high extract. If there is one Chateauneuf du Pape that smells like an open-air Provencal spice, flower, and food market, it is Vieux Donjon. It is a classic, concentrated essence of Provence, all in an alcoholic beverage. This wine will need 4-5 years of cellaring when released and drink well for 15-20 years