Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, Tenuta Il Poggione 2016

This is the top-shelf wine from Il Poggione, and it's a must-have bottle for those who collect wines from this celebrated estate. From an icon vintage, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a beauty. It stands at the intersection of intensity, elegance and power. The fruit is shapely and dense with plenty of blackberry and black cherry, and you also get savory touches of campfire ash, tar, licorice, ferrous earth and balsam herb. Honestly, you get it all, including that distinctive Brunello power and abundance that is not easily achieved with such careful balance. The finish is structured, fresh and long, and with more time in the glass, the leathery or savory aromas become more pronounced (as does the alcohol). Production is 40,000 bottles. Drink 2025-2050.

Il Poggione only produces the Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli in the 5-star vintages. (The 2019 will be released next year.) Sourced from 60-year-old vines, they only use French oak and do one additional year of barrel aging. I love the 2016 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which displays a rich but transparent red color and is very pure and elegant, not weighted or heavy. It has more of a floral profile and retains lovely freshness, with sweet tannins, notes of ripe red cherry liqueur, and an elegant and refined profile. Polished and well-styled, it’s starting to show an approachable side now, as its oak feels more seamless and displays even more elegance and freshness in this vintage for the Riserva. Drink 2025-2045.