Côte Rôtie Belle Hélène, Domaine Stéphane Ogier 2017

Still aging in demi-muids (the blend was made and moved to demi-muids when the other single vineyards were bottled), the 2017 Côte Rôtie Belle Hélène reveals a deep purple color as well as a huge, powerful full-bodied style that's just begging for a decade of cellaring. This classic effort comes from the Côte Rozier and La Landonne lieux-dits and offers serious meatiness and masculine characteristics as well as ample black fruits, smoked earth, graphite, and toasted spice. It's a brilliant wine in the making, but not for those seeking instant gratification.

Unquestionably, one of the most exciting domaines in the world of wine today is that of superstar winemaker Stephane Ogier, who continues to purchase and plant new vineyards throughout Côte Rôtie and the Northern Rhône. I was blown away by his 2017s, and his Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage, as well as one of the greatest Côte Rôties I’ve had the opportunity to taste. While it’s still in barrel, the Côte Rôtie Belle Helene is another wine with perfection written all over it. In general, his 2017s shows ripe, expressive aromatics and tons of fruit, yet they have a firm, structured vibe on the palate and need bottle age. The 2018s, which are from a vintage compared to 1991 by Stéphane, show a slightly more rounded, seamless profile with silkier tannins. These wines shine for their purity of fruit as well as balance. While the expensive releases get all the attention, don’t miss the La Rosine, L’Ame Soeur, Saint Joseph, or Côte Rôtie Mon Village from this estate. These are terrific wines that offer loads of character and represent smoking values for the true wine lovers and wine drinkers out there.

Rich and plush, the 2017 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is a full-bodied, hedonistic example of the appellation. Black cherries, espresso, cedar and dark chocolate notes dominate the nose and palate, framed by ripe, velvety tannins. This shows impressive power and concentration allied to generosity, texture and length, making it a true powerhouse. Give it several years in the cellar and drink it through 2040 or so.