Dom Perignon P2 2003

The 2003 Dom Pérignon P2 takes all the natural intensity of the first release and turns the dial up to eleven. Power, generosity and volume are all exalted. The P2 balances richness with a greater sense of creaminess that comes through extended time on the cork. Readers should expect a ample, heady Champagne that is very much built for the dinner table. I can't say I am especially surprised by how well the P2 shows, even in this freakishly hot, dry year, as the first release continues to be terrific.

A wonderful and unique wine from an equally unique vintage filled with oxidation-preventing phenols. I have always been a faithful defender of this wine. It will forever be unique and different with a higher density and concentration than any other Dom Pérignon. Every minute a new sequence of aromas that dominates appears. In some sips the gray toasted and classic notes dominate, next time iodine and oyster shell take over to let the richly candied fruit of peach, mango and apricot jam take over in a third wave. What makes me recognize the vintage are the notes of licorice, black truffle, ash, tar, salt and asphalt. The structure is monumental and muscular with a wonderful interplay between dynamics, rhythm and intensity. In the taste, the same dark notes emerge as in the aroma, but the fruit is in this P2 stage more floral and spicy with a hint of lemongrass and mint where the normally disgorged version breathes more nougat, mint chocolate and orange.

Aromas of salted lemons, green apples, olives, grilled pineapple, biscuits, saltines, white cocoa and salted caramel. So seductive, concentrated and intense. Fine and sleek. Energy. Concentrated, salty dried-fruit character. Keeps going. Transparent and fresh. The P2 treatment of extended nine-year aging on the lees in the cellar without disgorgement gave it more energy and finesse. Disgorged 2020. Drink or hold.

The notoriously daring vintage of Dom Pérignon at 18 years old in recently disgorged form. Rich, broad nose with notes of candied mandarin – not instantly recognisable as Dom P on the nose. Toasty palate entry and still quite rich on the palate, thanks to lower than usual acidity presumably. Again, there was no fear of phenolics when making this wine as the logic was that the phenolics would make up for the softness of the acidity. This is now a gentle wine with very much its own personality. Soft and smoky at the start and then saline and refreshing on the finish. It's more like a bit of told-you-so evidence than, necessarily, the one Dom P you would choose from the current range available. But, boy, does it persist! 2021 - 2027

This is a very thick, dense DP with layers of ripe fruit. Dried apple, pineapple and pie crust with some nougat undertones. Dense and layered with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. Umami undertone. This has the highest percentage of pinot noir ever. 15 years on the lees in bottle. 62% pinot noir and 38% chardonnay. Drink or hold.