Cos is in Saint Estèphe but borders Pauillac and, in particular, the vineyards of Château Lafite. Quality was good in the 1990s but, since the 2001 vintage, it has reached another level. In some vintages the quality level is not far from that of the first growths. The stunning winery is one of the most modern and sophisticated in all of Bordeaux, with a 100% gravity cellar.
Deep purple-black in color, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d'Estournel shimmies and shines—a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate! 2028 - 2060
You need to take a little time to let the concentrated flavours seep out, this is a long hauler. The tannins build slowly but surely through the palate, sombre and serious right now, particularly for an estate that is known for its exuberance. The opulence is there if you give it time, and as the tannins elongate and relax, richer notes of bilberry fruits, toasted cedar, salted chocolate, turmeric and black pepper spice arrives. Harvest September 10 to 24. A 3.9pH is the highest since 2003, but any threat of low acidity is balanced by high tannins, and relatively low alcohol. A yield of 39hl/ha (43hl/ha in 2019).
Drinking Window 2027 - 2044
62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot. Cask sample.
Purple-black colour to the rim. Deep and dense (like an endless pool) but aromatically restrained. Some cassis with aeration. Big and bold with marked tension and supercharged but finely hewn tannins. Enough fruit to provide unctuosity. Fresh, dry and saline through to the finish. Powerful but sculpted. Very long ageing. (JL) 13.5%
Drink 2030 – 2055
(62% CS, 38% M; 39hl/ha; 13.5% ABV; 55% new)
Subtle black fruit, and a lovely, insistent gravel impression, already a nose that really tempts one to linger; rich, medium-full, beautifully, imperceptibly defined by its acidity and with superfine, velvety tannin; here is a mouthcoating, sweetly ripe Cabernet core, but a ripeness absolutely without excess, and remaining so fresh; subtle, flattering, prolonged, quietly aristocratic, the very essence of grand vin, and with terrific persistence. Great Cos, providing the sort of sensory satisfaction and appeal you get in a rich, detailed, sustained mezzoforte chord from a prime orchestra. A most complete and refined claret of first-growth quality. There is such polish in all the Cos wines—a great tribute to the team, led by Dominique Arangoits. 2030–60+.
Harvested between 10th and 24th September with a yield of 39hl/ha, the blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot and will be aged in 55% new French oak. We were unable to taste this wine En Primeur. 2020 Cos d'Estournel will celebrate 20 years of Michel Reybier's ownership with the production of a special black bottle with gold design.