|Burgundy||2019||Clos des Lambrays, Domaine des Lambrays New||BT||5||0||4,320.00||12||60||480||97.00||95.00||Clos des Lambrays||0.75|
|Wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.|
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was tasted both as separate parcels per vine age and as a final blend, which is 13.6° alcohol. This year the whole bunch contribution is 80%, matured in 60% new oak, which is a little more than it used to be and from various cooperages (hitherto it was exclusively François Frères with very light toasting.) This has an intense bouquet, initially very tightly wound and requiring aeration, gradually revealing predominantly black fruit, crushed limestone, graphite and pressed iris flower aromas. Very fine delineation but certainly aromatics that will require bottle age. The palate confirms this. It is very fresh on the entry with a much subtler influence of the stems compared to those under former winemaker Thierry Brouin. There is a light tang of white pepper and tobacco, very fine tannins with a poised, almost understated finish that is silky smooth in texture. Swallowing a mouthful (it was the finally tasting of the day) there is persistence that I think was lacking in recent vintages. This balletic, "Margot Fonteyne of Morey-Saint-Denis", will pirouette across your senses.
The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is very promising indeed, mingling scents of blood orange, wild berries and plums with notions of exotic spices, wilted rose petals, row cocoa and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated, elegantly fleshy core, lively acids, largely concealed tannins and a precise, perfumed finish.
Jacques Desvauges's first vintage at the Domaine des Lambrays was marked by a number of new initiatives. Organic farming required custom-made tractors capable of traversing the clos's steep upper slopes, and mechanical cultivation was necessarily complemented by plenty of manual work with the "pioche" (a task that I can personally attest is arduous). Yields were low, at some 15 hectoliters per hectare in the clos itself, and Desvauges vinified parcel by parcel, getting to know his charge. The results are very fine indeed, and I'm sure they auger well for the future of this important estate. I'll be reporting in more detail on the domaine's evolution in the near future.
An extremely subtle application of wood sets off the intensely floral-scented nose of herbal tea, poached plum, spice elements and a hint of newly turned earth. There is excellent volume to the caressing yet punchy medium weight plus flavors that exude both a lovely minerality and focused power on the delineated and beautifully persistent finish where the only reproach is a hint of wood. 2019 is a fine vintage for Clos des Lambrays and one that should repay extended keeping.