Another of the perennial highlights of the range is the 2020 Mâcon-Vergisson La Roche, a medium to full-bodied, chiseled and electric wine evocative of crisp Anjou pear, citrus zest, mint and vanilla pod. Saline and penetrating, from cool, northwest-facing plots, it is well worth seeking out.
This plot is located at the very top of La Roche de Vergisson, surrounded by parcels of Pouilly-Fuissé. East-facing slopes are dressed with very chalky soils. The free run juices were vinified in barrels, of which 25% were new. Fermentation took place until mid-December. Ageing took 8 months in barrels, with frequent lees stirring. Fleshy peaches and pears come through immediately on this expansive nose, but all is kept in check with a mineral tension and light smokiness. The palate is intense and driven, the desceptively generous fruit kept in line with brisk acidity. This silky, powerful La Roche is already showing its class, but the depth of citrus curd and saline spice suggests it will only improve over the coming years. Very long on the finish.
