Keltern Chardonnay, Villa Maria Estate 2019

A big, bold nose of ripe, golden stone fruits and lemon curd, attractively framed by toasty new oak. Savoury depth comes from smoke and spice, adding complexity. This leaps from the glass and draws you back for more. With air, it really opens up and becomes more precise with a very mineral, struck match character. The palate is rich and viscous with real concentration and persistence. Bold citrus and stone fruit follows from the nose. There is enough acidity to balance the ripe fruit, leading to a long, crisp and saline finish. With time, it becomes taut, linear and very classy. Already delicious now, this will be even more complete and complex after two years.