Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2018

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey's vines are in the higher part of the clos on clay soils. Richer and broader than some of his wines - though everything is relative - it combines notes of crème fraîche and patisserie with racy, focused, palate-thrilling acidity and the subtle wood that's a feature of his style. Early picking was the key to the balance of this wine in 2018. 2023-2035

Fermented in 350-litre oak. West of the village. Barrel sample. Spicy, creamy depth here, a pure chalky citrus nose and a hint of clementine. On the palate a richness and fulness in the mouth though the acidity cuts through the middle like a knife. So juicy and tense and excitable. Long, precise, clean-cut after the openness of the nose. Incredibly fresh but balanced. Perhaps just a little more austere on the palate than I expected. 2023-2030