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The 2018 Clos des Lambrays is 80% whole bunch this year and aged in 50% new oak. Jacques Desvauges took the sample from two barrels in proportion with the wood. It has a floral bouquet with scents of wilted rose petals and incense, hints of cedar filtering through the red berry fruit. The stems are much better integrated than in the Les Loups. The elegant palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, peppery but harmonious and sustained, and plenty of energy toward the finish. This is the only vintage vinified by Boris Champy, and he did a fine job.
The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is showing very well, exhibiting notes of cassis, ripe wild berries, dark chocolate, black truffles, grilled squab and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and elegant, with refined structuring tannins, lively acids and good concentration. This is a deep and complete Clos des Lambrays that was vinified with 80% whole cluster and matured in 50% new oak. At 13.6% alcohol, it's very nicely balanced and seems set to rank as the finest rendition of this quasi-monopole since at least 2015.
**Note: produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age; made with 80% whole clusters and 50% new wood**
Once again the nose is completely reduced and about all that can be said is that the underlying fruit appears to be quite ripe. On the palate there is good freshness and vivacity as the succulent and rounded middle weight plus flavors also possess a beguiling texture before culminating in a powerful, sappy, firm and somewhat raspy finish. It's hard to discern how much of the raspy feel of the tannins displayed by all three wines is due to the vintage or due to Boris Champy perhaps changing the vinification style somewhat compared to that of Thierry Brouin.