Dow, Dow's Port 1994

The massive 1994 is unquestionably the finest Dow I have tasted since the 1977. This opaque purple-colored wine is not as developed or flamboyant as Fonseca, but it is super-concentrated and multi-layered, with huge masses of fruit and some tannin in the finish. This is a slightly drier style than Fonseca or Graham's, but it appears to be a classic, majestic, enormously constituted 1994 that should age effortlessly for three decades or more. It is one of the stars of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030.

Deep garnet colour. The nose is just beginning to evolve into musky, dried plum and raisin aromas with whiffs of tree bark, nutmeg, cumin and cloves. The palate is seriously big and voluptuous with medium to high acidity and a medium to firm level of fine tannins. Very long finish.

Slightly dull crimson. Classically concentrated nose with a dry, savoury edge to it. Luscious, sweet, ruby juice - by which I do not mean to infer this is basically ruby port, just that it tastes rather like liquid red gems. Not especially intense. Drink 2007-2015. Date tasted 13th Oct 04.