Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau 1990

The colour is less deep than the 1993 but retains a healthy youthful hue. I was surprised at first by the reticence of the nose, but it did not take long for the bouquet to develop. On the palate the wine has retained a magical tension but it is the incredible sensuality of the texture – remember the Rabelais quote of wine slipping down the throat like taffeta (admittedly he was not referring to Chambertin). At this point, a blind ringer was introduced which proved to be the 1990 Chambertin from Domaine Leroy. At first this new wine seemed in a different class, because of its greater intensity, but then reverting to the Rousseau 1990 demonstrated that its graceful harmony remains unmatched. Tasted: May 2019.