Barbaresco Crichët Pajé, Roagna 2010

The iconic 2010 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé doesn’t have Roagna’s name on the front label (other than a signature in script). Instead, the wine is recognized by its artwork featuring an image of workers on a labor strike with some political meaning. Luca Roagna’s grandfather bought these vines in 1953, and the first official vintage made was 1978 (even though a handful of experimental 1977 bottles may conceivably be spotted once in a blue moon). Most of the vines today are 80 years old. Luca’s father wanted to create a revolutionary wine (hence the political artwork on the font label) that would represent a break from classic Barbaresco. The idea was to create a Barbaresco designed for long cellar aging, just like its nearby cousin, Barolo. Indeed, the first thing you notice about this expression from 2010 is that the tannic structure needs more time to soften. That’s remarkable given that this wine has already completed anywhere from eight to ten (depending on the vintage) years of barrel aging. Crichët Pajé is not an officially recognized MGA cru; however, it is a single vineyard (measuring about half a hectare) planted on softly rolling hills that form an enclosed little amphitheater.