The 2017 Warre’s Vintage Port is made from some incredibly low yields, the Retiro vineyard cropped at a paltry 470 grams per vines. It has a very concentrated nose. This is higher-toned than the Cockburn’s with macerated black cherries, boysenberry jam, orange rind and a subtle eau-de-vie like element that becomes more pronounced with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced and very well structured. This has tons of grip, a more masculine and assertive Warre’s compared to recent vintages. The acidity is extremely well judged with layers of black fruit laced with graphite and white pepper towards the prolonged finish. This will require a decade in the cellar to soften those tannins, but it will surely be worth the wait.
Loads of wet earth and grape aromas with hints of stems. Old vine aromas of bark and moss. Full-bodied, sweet and structured with a big kick on the end. Very impressive. Exceptional layers of fruit and energy. A stronger and more muscular Warre. 3,600 cases. Try after 2028.
Lush and inviting in feel, with a beautifully creamy texture that lets plum sauce, blueberry reduction and raspberry pâte de fruit flavors glide along effortlessly. Notes of violet, anise and black tea are beguiling in the background before melding seamlessly on the finish. This shimmers with fruit, balanced by depth and spine. Best from 2035 through 2055. 3,600 cases made, 2,000 cases imported. — JM
The 2017 Vintage Port is mostly a field blend from old vines (63%), plus 22% Touriga Nacional and 15% Touriga Franca, bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in seasoned vats. The just-bottled sample was not actually used for fear it might be in shock, so this is actually a pre-bottling sample. It comes in with 110 grams of residual sugar. 2025 - 2067
Deep colour, with a spicy and highly aromatic nose with christmas cake, black fruit, blood orange and dried flowers. The palate is sweet, soft and forward, showing remarkable approachability and integration of tannin for a wine this young. Silky, pure and elegant, this is fragrant, fine and very long. Very well made.
Based on Quinta da Cavadinha in the Pinhão valley as well as Quinta do Retiro in the Torto and Quinta da Telhada upstream, mostly a field blend of fruit from old vines backed by Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca: lovely, open floral aromas, so fresh and aromatic, typical of the Tourigas with a touch of green tea leaf, underlying concentration; wonderfully pure, sweet plum and wild cherry fruit, backed by fine grained tannins, wonderfully fresh, not the biggest wine by any means but supremely well integrated and elegant. Near perfect poise.
