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The 2017 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru comes from vines planted in 1936, and was raised in three barrels this year (two of them new.) It has a clean, precise tightly wound bouquet of blackberry, raspberry preserve, pressed iris and subtle undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, quite masculine compared to the Clos de la Roche, and shows firmer grip and persistence on the chalky finish. Very fine and quite cerebral. Drink 2023-2045.
The 2017s form a strong follow-up to the outstanding 2016s. Colladot shows deft use of whole bunches, knows when to select new oak or used, add stems or not (details for each cuvée are presented in the tasting notes.) He allows the vineyards to articulate their own personalities so that each one offers its own take on the vintage. If you have not discovered Coquard Loison Fleurot, practice saying that name on a daily basis, or use the acronym “CLF.” It never does “DRC” any harm. Make sure you bag some of the 2017s when they hit the market.