Barbaresco Santo Stefano, Bruno Giacosa 2005

Salivating acids, translucent Nebbiolo fruit, beams of tannin and mid-weight structure are the signatures of a pedigreed Barbaresco that is just captivating. The 2005 didn’t get much attention on release. Readers lucky enough to own the 2005 Santo Stefano are in for a real treat. It’s a wine that captures Giacosa and longtime winemaker Dante Scaglione at their very best. In many ways, 2005 is the last great classic Giacosa vintage. The 2007s were good, but in a different style. Since then the wines have been variable, sometimes good, sometimes less than good, and sometimes better than good. But never again moving, like this. Drink 2022-2037.

The 2005 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is striking in its beauty. This firm, structured wine bursts from the glass with layers of dark red fruit, spices, flowers and menthol. Medium in body, the wine possesses notable inner beauty in a transparent, almost weightless style. There is superb pedigree here, not to mention tons of class. Once again the Santo Stefano bottling delivers the goods. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025.