Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Domaine Robert Groffier 2014

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze has quite a vivid color. It has a high-turned nose with blueberry and cassis fruit, refusing to articulate the terroir with the same transparency as its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, probably undergoing a longer skin maceration (perhaps higher temperature) than other Clos de Bèze but certainly not short of sensuality and luxuriance on the finish. It is a typical Groffier in style, one that will repay bottle age. Drink 2020-2050.

The 2014 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru comes from 80-year-old vines planted by the eponymous proprietor, Robert Groffier. It includes 100% whole bunch fruit and is matured entirely in new oak. Presently, the new oak comes across quite pronounced on the nose, especially juxtaposed against the Les Amoureuses that is matured in half as much new wood. The palate is nicely composed and here I feel that the wood is better integrated into the fabric of the wine. It exhibits a firm structure, like the Les Amoureuses with "solid foundations" though with plenty of freshness coming through on the finish. I might just have a sneaky preference for the Bonnes-Mares or the Les Amoureuses, but it is still a well-crafted Clos-de-Bèze that deserves several years in bottle.