|Subregion||France > Burgundy > Côte de Nuits > Gevrey-Chambertin|
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Bright medium red. Reticent on the nose but already conveying exhilarating high tones to its aromas of raspberry liqueur, pomegranate, wild herbs, spices and game. Dense and seamless but also salty and penetrating, communicating a distinctly wild aspect to its flavors of cranberry, dark cherry, minerals and game. Aeration brought a compelling creaminess to the middle palate, but the wine's unflagging finish suggests that this powerful expression of soil will repay extended cellaring. Even today, the noble tannins are in perfect harmony with the wine's fruit.
Strong wood and menthol characters bury the fruit at present. On the plus side the exceptionally rich and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors possess outstanding amounts of dry extract that impart a velvety texture to the plush finish that is slightly sweet due to the generous wood treatment. Note that like several wines reviewed above that my projected range assumes the underlying material is up to the job of successfully absorbing the wood treatment.
The 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a sweeter and riper, if less nuanced and aristocratic bouquet than the 2014 Chambertin. This is all sweetness and light (unusually for Clos de Bèze). The palate is very refined with rounded tannin, well judged acidity and good density. This is backward, almost surly towards the finish, but there is also an attractive spicy edge that comes through on the aftertaste. It may actually need more bottle age than the Chambertin.
Discernible wood highlights the elegant, pure and highly spiced aromas of perfumed red pinot fruit that displays additional depth in the form of Gevrey style earth, floral and Asian-style tea notes. There is a softly exotic character to the mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of detail and intensity on the hugely long, complex and palate staining finish. This is a dramatically beautiful wine but again note well it's going to need between 15 to 20 years of cellar time to reveal its full, and considerable, potential.