Rioja Gran Reserva 890, La Rioja Alta 2004

The 2004 Gran Reserva 890 is the top of the range here, a wine that is only released three/four times per decade in exceptional years. They start by sourcing grapes from their oldest vineyards and going through a slow process of aging the wine in American oak barrels for six years, with ten manual rackings, and each time there is a selection of only the best barrels. The bottled wine is 13.5% alcohol with a remarkably low pH (3.0) that to me means 'quality' of the acidity, which is a healthy six grams per liter (in tartaric). The nose is all about forest floor aromas, game, cigar ash, incense, old furniture and some smoked meat. The palate shows what the technical data was hinting--very fresh with slightly dusty tannins and nice acidity. It's polished, but feels livelier than some older vintages. 38,000 numbered bottles.

“Deep crimson in colour. A brooding nose of sweet vanillin, red and black fruits, complemented by savoury notes of saddle leather and fresh meat. Medium intensity. A complex and mouth filling palate of plush, silky fruit that is incredibly well balanced by refreshing acidity and very fine tannins. The wine finishes on a very moreish, sweet note and is precise and incredibly long. A classically styled yet elegant Rioja that is showing some nice in-bottle development but still comes across as very fresh, youthful and impressive.”