Martinborough Pinot Noir, Ata Rangi 2013

A significant pinot noir that displays immense quality, depth and completeness tasted ahead of bottling. Very complex indeed with exotic spices, meaty charcuterie and game meats. A fabulous array of different cherry fruit characters, hints of citrus zest and saffron plus some foresty bracken to add. The palate has immense energy and depth yet treads lightly on balanced structure and even shape, the tannins wind out and around supple flesh, gathering together and fanning at the finish, the acidity is bright throughout and the finish holds long. A masterpiece. Commanding and seductive pinot noir at its finest. Drink in 2019.

2013 has been described as the best in a decade, even the best in 30 years by some. It was much warmer than 2012, with reasonable yields after a mild spring. December was dry and warm, but January cooled off, slowing ripening. A well-timed dump of rain arrived in mid February to ease the drought. Lovely March weather ensured full seed and tannin ripeness, but the real clincher was the cold, crisp, clear April, which gave us fruit in pristine condition - not a sign of shrivelling or disease, with acidity, pH and sugars in perfect balance. GDD 1,250, 30% whole bunch.

Cool nights. Deep ruby. Surprisingly complex aroma already – still with primary dark-red fruit but also a smoky savoury depth. Super-fine tannins, amazingly elegant even at this young age, concentrated too. Dry-textured and refined. Seems almost weightless on the palate but it still has depth and length. Cool and juicy. Drink 2017 - 2028.