Pichon Lalande 1986

Now at 30 years of age, there is a gulf between the two Pichons in this vintage that no longer exists. The 1986 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has long been one of the best wines from the estate alongside the 1982 (even if the first bottle was a little oxidized). The second bottle was representative. It has a classic pencil-lead, cedar-infused nose that rockets from the glass, a subtle floral note developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red berry fruit, a pinch of white pepper and cedar, structured compared to coeval vintages and perhaps further along its drinking plateau than previous examples. Certainly à point, I would be reaching for bottles of this now if you cannot locate those 1982s, or alternatively seek out the superlative 1996. This still remains a fine, rather regal Pichon-Lalande. Drink 2016-2030.

The glorious perfume of the 1986 Pichon Lalande was aromatically the most interesting and complex of the three 1986s. Cedar, spice box, black fruits, red cherry, sandalwood and earth notes emerged from its beautiful bouquet. In the mouth, it was silky, medium to full-bodied, and close to its plateau of maturity. Although 21 years of age, it is a late adolescent in terms of its life span.

One of the big surprises of the tasting. Superbly structured, with breathtaking aromas of plums, chocolate and berries that follow through on the palate. Full-bodied, with full tannins and a long, alluring finish. Needs time.--Pichon-Lalande vertical. Best after 2002.