Pichon Baron 2002

This is an elegant, deep ruby-colored wine with notes of sweet cassis, cedar wood, and tobacco with a hint of chocolate in the background. It is a layered, moderately weighty wine with pretty, even understated fruit flavors, excellent concentration, and a long finish with relatively ripe tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016.

Tasted blind at Farr's 2002 Bordeaux tasting. Very good definition on the nose: blackberry, melted tar, cedar-wood and a touch of smoke. The palate is ripe with solid tannins, a touch of austerity lending it a masculine persona, backward towards the finish with notes of blackberry leaf and pencil lead. Good length but a little aloof at the moment. Tasted October 2009.

Dense aromas of licorice, tobacco, cedar and currants. Subtle yet complex. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a rich, long finish. Very pretty. One of the best from Pauillac this year, and one of the surprises of the vintage. Best after 2008.

Inky purple in colour, holding its shape and form right through to the core of the wine, and plenty of Pauillac character to the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant nose. Touch of smoked caramel, cassis and bilberry, the fruit is less nuanced than with the 2001 or the 2000, but this is packed with slate-textured tannins and juicy minerality on the finish. Woodsmoke and ash curl out of the glass as it opens. 70% new oak. Jean-Rene Matignon technical director.

Drink 2011-19 Heady smoked fish aromas(!) Thick and sweet and easy. Modern winemaking rather than terroir but a neat impressive package. A bit oaky, but offers lots of pleasure.