Pichon Lalande 2013

A rarity in terms of the final blend for a Pichon Lalande, the 2013 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which is an historic first at this estate. Only 33% of the crop made it into the final blend. New manager Nicolas Glumineau worked at Montrose until hired away by the owners, the Roederer Champagne house. Yields were absurdly low at 13 hectoliters per hectare. This hasn't translated into a blockbuster, massive wine by any means. The vintage wouldn't permit that. However, the 2013 Pichon Lalande shows attractive red and black currant fruit, hints of bay leaf and underbrush, soft tannins, medium body and a supple, charming, seductive character. I'd be hard-pressed to guess that this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon based on how it smells and tastes, but it is. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.

The 2013 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, which as noted at the time of release is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, has a fragrant bouquet that, like the deuxième vin, has a pungent marine influence: seaweed and touches of cockle shell, nicely defined with blackberry and briary emerging more strongly with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity with grainy tannin. There is a slight rawness towards the finish that would have been addressed by the addition of Merlot, but there is respectable substance. It falls away quickly towards the finish but otherwise it is balanced and quite a distinctive Pichon Lalande. Drink over the next decade.

The headline is that the Grand Vin is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon since the Merlot was affected by coulure and the quality and quantity was such that it was deemed unworthy of the name. As expected, it has a classic Cabernet nose with that graphite character coming through very strongly. The palate is medium-bodied with quite tough tannins. There is a good level of acidity although it must be said...I miss that Merlot towards the finish to smooth out the texture, soften the hard edges of what is some very decent Cabernet. Its uncompromising Cabernet character has its charms but that severity on the finish takes some getting used to. Tasted April 2014.