Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prum 2011

The Prums’ (non auction) 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. #18 – like the corresponding Graacher Himmelreich – can be described as “confectionary,” but there most similarity ends. In this instance, the sheer sense of sweetness is much less overriding, and the prominent aromas and flavors are of malt, caramel, vanilla cream, hazelnut paste, and chestnut puree. The textural creaminess of this Auslese is sheer seduction and its sense of depth and layering – of mysterious darkness even – no less enticing. Yet at the same time, it (and indeed in 2009, it seems, wine from this site generally) retains a fresh fruit edge over its Himmelreich counterpart (whereas the converse was true in 2008) along with a mouth-watering sense of salinity. And so, we have a finish not just astonishingly persistent, but possessed of striking delicacy, enervation, and irresistible juiciness. I suspect this will merit following from 30-40 years.

This backward wine only hints at pear cream, apricot flower and pine honey at this stage. It shows the opulence of a GK, with some rich and earthy notes of honeyed fruits, yet the finish remains comparatively light and fresh. This will be a cracking wine once it will have shed off its reductive notes of almond and smoke. 2026-2046