Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, Domaine de Montille 2009

A spicy, cool, elegant and very fresh nose features notes of hoisin, soy, anise and sandalwood while seamlessly integrating with rich, full-bodied and tautly muscular flavors that possess a silky mouth feel and supple mid-palate yet the robust tannins are extremely firm as is the explosive finish. Despite the muscular aspect, this is essentially an elegant wine that is more in the vein of a gymnast than a weight lifter.

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts graces the palate with finesse and nuance to spare. Hints of graphite, spices and crushed rocks add complexity to the fruit, but this is ultimately a wine of texture above all else. Silky tannins frame the highly expressive finesse. The 2009 Malconsorts has really come together over the last six months. It is more immediate than the 2010 tasted alongside it, but in a perfect world a well-stocked cellar would have both vintages. This is a flat-out great Malconsorts from Etienne de Montille. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.