(from a single vineyard of 1.84 ha that has been enclosed since 1698; magnum format). I have had the opportunity to try this vintage 3 times since it was released but this is the first time in large format (see the database for the reviews from 750 ml). As is often the case in magnum there is just another level of depth and freshness as the expressive, cool and restrained nose displays only a trace of secondary character to the yeasty aromas of brioche, white orchard fruit and citrus peel nuances. There is a gorgeously clean and highly sophisticated mouth feel to the middle weight flavors that are supported by an ultra-fine if notably firm mousse, all wrapped in a markedly dry but not really austere finish that possesses excellent lift that contributes to that beguiling feeling of being impatient for the next sip. Unlike this wine from 750 ml, in magnum format this is nowhere near ready and this knockout will require plenty of patience, indeed it wouldn’t surprise me if my 2025+ suggested drinking window proves to be overly optimistic. In sum, this is a wine of such harmony and balance that it really sticks in your memory as having provided one of those rare ‘wow’ experiences! Drink 2025+.
The 2000 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil is rich, deep, textured and wonderfully complete. The seductiveness of the 2000 vintage comes through beautifully, but the Mesnil has extra dimensions of depth that aren't found in the Vintage. Smoke, ash, graphite, pastry and lemon are some of the nuances that unfold in this supremely gracious, refined Clos du Mesnil. I expect the 2000 to take some time to reach its peak, but it is superb, even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035.
Silky and fine like featherweight cashmere, this vibrant blanc de blancs is nonetheless laden with ample, expressive flavors. Rich hints of XO cognac and coffee liqueur underscore bergamot and
glazed apricot fruit, while smoky minerality, spun honey, grilled nut and exotic spices impart further complexity and linger on the lasting finish. Disgorged spring 2012. Drink now through 2030. From France.-A.N.
