Graacher Himmelreich Auslese Goldkap, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prum 2008

The Prum (non-auction cuvee of) 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. #13 bursts from the glass with a Chartreuse-like amalgam of herbal and floral distillates and hints of smoke, as well as suggestions of brown-spiced apple, quince, and white peach preserves that then lushly saturate the palate. Candied lemon and grapefruit rind, licorice, and white raisin add further complexity, and it is remarkable the extent to which one gives no thought to either the wine’s sweetness or its leavening acidity as such. Seamlessly rich, it seems to levitate over into its long finish, pulling out an amazing burst of sheer refreshment. I would anticipate this being well worth following for four decades. Late botrytis caught the fruit of the Himmelreich at an optimal stage, whereas by that point – explains Manfred Prum – fruit in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr was already too ripe and its skins too precarious.