Domaine de Chevalier 2009

In late 2011, I had the last bottle in my cellar of the 1970 Domaine de Chevalier. Much to my surprise, it was still holding on to life and remained gorgeously complex in that ethereal Graves style. The 2009, one of the finest Domaine de Chevaliers yet produced, reveals a striking bouquet of burning embers, sweet cherry, black and red currant fruit, spice box, cedar and lead pencil shavings. The tannins are sweet in this fleshy, full-bodied offering. It is built on the notion of extraordinary harmony, elegance and complexity. While not the most concentrated or flamboyant 2009, its intense aromas are already reasonably evolved and its lusciousness and balance are terrific. Made from an interesting blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot, its yields of 45 hectoliters per hectare were slightly higher than many of its neighbors achieved. Drink it over the next 25 years.

Domaine de Chevalier is at No. 5 [in his top 10 wines of 2012]. It's one of the "flyers" in Bordeaux for me at the moment with the dedication to quality of owner Olivier Bernard, and many of the replantings of vineyards at the estate now coming into their own. The beauty and refinement of the 2009 DC red reminds me of some great old wines from the estate such as 1970 and 1959.

Remains deep damson in colour even at nearly 10 years old, and on the attack you find full and true blackberry cassis and bilberry notes, we are really building up layers and complexity on the nose. Gorgeous wine, just beautiful balance and juiciness, and a silken texture to the fruit, tannins that support without ever being intrusive, no question this can age. Tannins are deceptive because they build over the palate. Tobacco and walnut on the finish, I look forward to watching this develop further over the next few years. Drinking Window 2019 - 2035

Fragrant, fresh and racy. Definitely not dense but a real, well-balanced pleasure to drink.

Drinking nicely, with some maturity yet still youthful, the 2009 Domaine De Chevalier offers gorgeous red and black currant fruits, smoked tobacco, damp earth, and cedary spice. Full-bodied, opulent, and undeniably sexy on the palate, with a great mid-palate and sweet tannins. Displaying good balance as well as ripe tannins, its dense, opulent profile is going to continue to evolve for another 30 years or more. Don't be afraid to open bottles, though – it's sensational today. The blend of the 2009 is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. 2020-2052.

Crimson hue. Subtle dark-fruit and smoky notes. Juicy and fresh on the palate, the tannins extremely fine. Hint of blackcurrant. Harmonious. Joyful and appealing now but will hold. 2018-2038

Black red, fine intensity of fragrant Cabernet fruit, touch of wild roses, concentrated yet already showing potential complexity, beautifully expressed palate with density and fragrance and a taffeta aspect that adds lift to its succulent elegance and class. Drink 2015-30.

Not so expressive on the nose right now; dark chocolate, cedar, tobacco nuances, some savoury edges with a touch of iodine. Balanced, calm, gentle, quiet, powerful no doubt but not shouting like the 2005 is right now. Smooth, supple, excellent tannins really integrated and supportive giving a wide but soft feel. So delicious, crunchy, ripe, chalky, salty, so much beautiful power and perseverance here. I love this, not trying too hard, effortless almost. Really incredible wine and stands out for it's balance and harmony and just giving so much togetherness. Everything works and this remains calm despite the richness.

Deep colour. A soaring, complex and classic Graves nose that reminds me of La Mission Haut Brion. There is so much going on here! Roasted meat, Asian spices, herbs, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Loads of fruit on the mid palate and a long finish. There is structure to balance the richness. Really complex and multi-dimensional. Excellent.