Canon 2009

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Canon is a little reticent to begin, opening out to notions of rare beef, cast iron pan, cigar boxes and cloves with a core of baked plums and mulberries plus a waft of dried lavender. Full, richly fruited and sill quite youthful, the palate has a firm yet velvety texture and seamless freshness supporting the generous fruit, finishing long and mineral laced. 2021-2050

John Kolasa mentioned that in 2009 he increased the percentage of Cabernet Franc up to 25% and that his intention is to dial it up to 35% in several years. The 2009 was matured in 60% new oak. This is more reticent on the nose, very classic in style but beautifully defined with just the right amount of reserve and austerity. The palate is fresh and very elegant, with disarmingly svelte, silky tannins. Good depth, not powerful but succulent and mineral-rich on the structured finish. Excellent - but it will need several years in bottle and is perhaps more 2010 in style than its peers. Tasted December 2012.

Aromas of nuts, spices, chocolate powder, then changes to fruits and flowers. Fascinating. Full body, with silky tannins and a wonderful intensity and super polished tannins with a long, long finish. Super refined. Best Canon in years. Try in 2016.

The finest Canon since the 1982, the 2009 (75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc) reveals a dense blue/purple color along with a classic nose of chalk dust, blueberries, black raspberries, black currants and a touch of wood smoke. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and loaded with an inner framework of minerality and moderately high tannins, this backward, but stylish, concentrated Canon will benefit from 7-8 years of cellaring and last for three decades.

A little paler than some. Lightish cherry red. Glossy, gamey, almost animal nose. Rich and sweet but with a certain dryness on the finish. There is some real life here. Very glamorous. Sumptuous and flattering, very polished, racy and sinewy and like a racehorse. Good enterprising energetic stuff! Date tasted 30th March 2010. Drink 2017-2030.

There has been huge investment here recently in the vineyard (80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc) and chai by owners Chanel. This is a great property that made fabulous wines in the past but dipped in form during the 1990's. It is now right back up there under the management of John Kolasa of Rauzan Segla (formerly of Château Latour). An increasingly rare example of a traditional Saint Emilion from a great terroir - situated at the heart of the plateau - that is being made to be enjoyed with food rather than score points at blind tastings. A wine of elegance and class that holds its head up proudly in comparison to some of the more manufactured "modern" efforts in Saint Emilion. Elevage here is in 80% new oak and half of the production is relegated to the excellent second label - Clos Canon. In 2009 the vineyard was hit by hail and consequently only 3000 cases have been produced of First Wine. But what a wine! This is absolutely gorgeous, rich prune-like fruit but with great lift and balance, really fine and pure. Silk and velvet, really voluptuous. This is the greatest Canon made since the 1959. Limited availability.

This is a creamy, lush hedonist's wine, with suave, textured layers of fig sauce, pureed plum and cassis woven with hints of mocha and pain d'épices. Picks up grip though, joined by a roasted mesquite hint on the finish for added length. Best from 2014 through 2025.-J.M.

Although the nose is fleshy and rich there is freshness behind that lifts the flavours. On the palate black fruits, bramble vie with redcurrant and raspberry for dominance, the sweetness of the bramble coming through on the back palate. Drink 2020-2040.

Brilliant this year - so satisfying and refined. Has to be the best Canon for a number of years. Certainly no block-buster but pure and silky with length and line. Exquisite. Drink 2016-2040.

Cool and fresh for the vintage, yet clearly ripe and rich. Very finely balanced, Classy. Really fine and the essence of genuine St Emilion. An intensely serious wine. Superb. Winner of the flight from the group.

A fleshy and generous St.-Emilion with a great interplay of fresh and super-ripe plum aromas. Behind this is quite a major tannin structure and plenty of chalky minerality that carries the bold finish beautifully. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)