CDP Vieilles Vignes, Domaine de la Charbonnière 2007

My notes on the dense ruby/purple-colored 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes (95% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre from 80-year-old vines) begin with the words "serious stuff." Deep, rich, and full-bodied with abundant notes of forest floor, truffles, earth, kirsch, raspberries, and black currants, this powerful, layered, multidimensional, long, ageworthy wine should drink well between 2012-2028. The Maret family runs this impeccably managed estate that has nearly 45 acres of vineyards, primarily in the northeast sector of the appellation. They also have a large holding on the high plateau in the northern tier of Chateauneuf du Pape from which they produce their superb Les Hautes Brusquieres from a lieux-dit of the same name. Only two 2008s were made. All of the 2007s performed better out of bottle than they did last year.

A more masculine, graphite, mineral and smoked dark fruit-driven wine, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is full-bodied, concentrated and still structured and moderately tannic. It’s beautifully concentrated but still needs a year or three to hit full maturity, and it will keep for another decade or more after that. Drink 2015-2032.

One of the finest vintages of this cuvee made, ever, is the Grenache-dominated 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, which is 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre from 80-year-old vines planted in the rocky, stony soils of the la Crau lieu-dit. A big, full-bodied, concentrated and decadent wine that needs air to show at its best, it boasts sensational notes of chocolate, roasted herbs, garrigue, black currants and licorice that continue to freshen up with time in the glass. Unctuous, massively concentrated and decadent, it will have 20-25 years of longevity.