Sori San Lorenzo, Gaja 1996

The dense opaque purple-colored 1996 Sori San Lorenzo possesses complex aromatics, consisting of classic Nebbiolo scents of rose petals, dried herbs, spice box, cedar, and abundant jammy black cherry and berry fruit. It is impressively powerful and muscular, with moderate tannin, a sweet, unctuous texture, and a 40+ second finish. Although the aromatics are stunning, this 1996 remains youthful and backward. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. As I reported in issue #124 (8-27-99), 1996 is a spectacular vintage for Angelo Gaja. There is a lot of speculation as to why he has dropped the name Barbaresco from the labels of his single-vineyard wines, but given his personality and overall commitment to quality, it can only be to improve the quality and give him some flexibility in difficult vintages to produce a wine that may or may not be 100% Nebbiolo. At least that's how I view it.

The sensational black/purple-colored 1996 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo is mind-boggling. In addition to scents of minerals, dried herbs, and spice box, it exhibits fabulously concentrated black cherry and currant fruit as well as a hint of raspberries. It is an oversized wine with unreal richness, layers of concentration, and a full-bodied, powerful finish. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.