La Tâche, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2002

Even at 20+ years of age, this is still rather reserved though determined swirling reveals a nose that is exceptionally fine and pure with fantastic aromatic detail and an almost diaphanous transparency of expression that reveals all of the kaleidoscopic La Tâche spice box nose, including anise, clove, plums, high-toned black cherry, crushed red raspberry and more. The broad, expansive and powerful flavors are still quite firm if not hard yet the strikingly long finish is round, generous, sappy and superbly complex. Despite the aromatic fireworks and firm supporting tannins, there is an underlying tenderness here that allows the '02 LT to be approachable now even if it's not entirely ready. With that said, the balance is so fine that this should easily age for another 30 years, perhaps even longer. Tasted six times since 2011 with consistent notes. Try from 2027+.

Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. It was initially difficult to choose between the 1999 and 2002 La Tâche, but in the end the former just ascended to the stratosphere, while the latter simply cruised, albeit at a very high altitude. Now at 13 years of age, there is just a slight bricking on the rim. It feels a little more forward than the 1999–a stylish and personality-driven bouquet with predominantly red berry fruit interlaced with warm bricks and undergrowth (much more so of the latter compared to the 1999). The palate is beautifully balanced with exquisite tannin, perfect acidity and an effortless, you might say easygoing personality. That is deceptive because it is a complex and utterly harmonious La Tâche that is the epitome of elegance. Unlike the 1999, I would broach this now with an hour's decanting. Wonderful.

Good deep, bright red. Dee p aromas of cherry, raspberry, minerals and Asian spices, lifted by a floral quality. Fat, sweet and full but lively; offers great volume without any undue weight. This shows exciting inner-palate energy and finishes with a sexy, deep core of spice. Very pretty, and very long. A superb showing today.

This is very reserved though determined swirling reveals a nose that is exceptionally fine and pure with fantastic aromatic detail and an almost diaphanous transparency of expression that reveals all of the kaleidoscopic La Tâche spice box nose, including anise, clove, plums, high-toned black cherry, crushed red raspberry and more. The broad, expansive and powerful flavors are quite strict on the mid-palate with massive depth yet the finish is round, generous, sappy and superbly complex with a finish that lasts for minutes. Despite the aromatic fireworks and opulent character, there is an underlying tenderness here that suggests that this will be approachable relatively early but the balance is so fine that this should easily age for 30 years, perhaps longer.