La Tâche, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1995

Stylistically, this borrows elements from both the '97 and the '96 as it combines moderate floral notes with most of the spice, soy and hoisin of the '96 plus the densest flavors of any vintage to this point. The mid-palate doesn't have quite the same sap of the '96 and the long, dusty finish offers a hint of chocolate and violets. This too has the potential to be very long lived and even at 13 years of age, it's clear that it still has another 7 to 10 years to go before it reaches its full potential. Multiple notes with consistent results; in fact, a recent bottle tasted in Burgundy was even better than the bottle in the big La Tâche tasting held in early '03.

This wine is mind-boggling and has gathered even more body, power, and density than it displayed from barrel. It is intensely profound, and super-ripe yet harmonious. Its extraordinarily long finish (it tails off with a sweet kirsch kiss) flabbergasted me. I could not help but think of the finishes of two wines I love - Chateau Rayas and Chateau Lafleur. It appears to be holding an enormous amount in reserve, and may ultimately merit higher ratings. It should be held at least ten years, and will easily last through 2020 given proper cellar conditions. Bravo!