La Tâche, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1993

I have experienced a fair amount of bottle variation with the '93 but both this bottle and a second bottle that I had in early May were outstanding). ("severe, closed and understated but I am convinced it will be a great La Tâche" - AdV). This too evidences a slight floral quality, and a fascinating mix of earth, leather, tea and spice notes plus an interesting green bark component. The slightly austere, tannic, wonderfully rich flavors are dense, in fact extremely dense with excellent depth and terrific complexity and a finish that seems to go on forever. Though there are now hints of secondary aromas, this remains very young, structured and remarkably intense. When you get the right bottle, the '93 can be a real stunner. Note: the inconsistency of this wine continues unabated as a bottle opened at the Domaine recently was almost aggressively vegetal and awkward. In short, when it's good it's very good but I've now had too many disappointing bottles not to be wary.

As usual, La Tache reveals the most saturated deep ruby color of the DRC's, a tight but promising nose of smoky, game-like aromas intertwined with red and black fruits, minerals, and vanillin from new oak. Medium to full-bodied, with sweet, concentrated, berry fruit, this tannic, spicy, backward wine appears to possess the requisite extraction to ensure a long, positive evolution. Give it 7-10 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 12-15 years. The DRC's 1993s possess the vintage's toughness, tannic structure, austerity, and aging potential. They will not be flattering to drink in their youth, and most will require 6-10 years of cellaring. Typical of the vintage, they appear to be the most tannic and structured wines made at this domaine since 1983.