Lagrange (St Julien) 2000

Deep ruby red in colour at 22 years old. Tertiary notes on the palate, woodsmoke, ash, smoked earth. There are fruits here but they are gentle, the emphasis is on spice and smoke. Rosebud, jasmine, concentrated damson, absolutely ready to drink at this point, the tannins are still very present but they have a succulent and gentle feel. 50% new oak. Lowest percentage ever of overall production, 34% 1st wine, with an unusual blend for the time with high Cabernet Sauvignon, so a window into the kind of blend that they have today. Jacques and Eric Boissenot consultants.

An impressive performance by Lagrange, the 2000 possesses a saturated ruby/purple color with obvious notes of melted licorice, creme de cassis, and toasty new oak. This ripe, dense, full-bodied St.-Julien is chewy, thick, high in tannin, large-bodied, and impressively long and dense. As always, it is less expressive than some of its peers, but it is loaded as well as reasonably priced. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.

The most impressive Lagrange produced in over a decade, the 2000 exhibits an opaque purple color along with a big, smoky nose of new oak intermixed with creme de cassis, cherries, saddle leather, and spice. With medium to full body, high tannin, and impressive richness as well as length, it will be at its finest between 2008-2025.

While 2000 is unquestionably a great vintage for St.-Julien, on the two occasions I tasted Lagrange, it was dominated by its wood, and was a bit disjointed. It possesses a saturated ruby/purple color as well as plenty of earth and new oak in the aromatics, a touch of chocolate on the attack, medium body, high tannin, and a jagged finish. This wine is undoubtedly excellent, but will it come together in a more symmetrical manner? Anticipated maturity: 2004-2016.