Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, Maison M. Chapoutier 2003

Like the concentrated essence of bee’s honey with resiny, flower, and mineral notes, the 2003 Ermitage Le Meal blanc is a huge, full-bodied, even tannic effort with amazing viscosity and thickness. This is a wine to drink young, or forget for two decades. To Chapoutier’s credit, he is making these wines for posterity, not for immediate gratification.

The 2003 Ermitage Le Meal blanc may be the finest dry white I have ever tasted. Providing a prodigious tasting experience, it is filled with honeyed citrus, an unctuous stoniness to the fruit character, amazing body, and abundant freshness, precision, and length (the finish lasts nearly 90 seconds). A legend in the making, it is an incredible effort. This white Hermitage cuvee is off the charts. It tips the scales between 14.5-16.1% alcohol, and is a candidate for perfection. This white will be bottled without fining or filtration. As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity.