Yquem 1990

An extraordinary effort, Yquem's 1990 is a rich and fabulously superb, sweet wine. This wine also possesses lots of elegance and finesse. The wine's medium gold color is accompanied by an exceptionally sweet nose of honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, coconut, and apricots. High quality, subtle toasty oak is well-integrated. The wine is massive on the palate, with layers of intensely ripe botrytis-tinged, exceptionally sweet fruit. Surprisingly well-integrated acidity, and a seamless, full-bodied power and richness have created a wine of remarkable harmony and purity. Certainly it is one of the richest Yquems I have ever tasted, with 50-100 years of potential longevity. An awesome Yquem! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2050+.

This is exuberant, concentrated and luscious. Full of blood orange, nectarine, saffron, touches of carmalised ginger, truffle and crème brûlée. A seesaw of zesty acidity and luscious sweetness, this is a beautiful wine that still has decades ahead of it. Owned by the Lur Saluces family at the time, this clearly shows why Yquem stands in its own category in the appellation.

Half-bottle. Glowing amber. Waxy/mossy nose with amazing complexity. Really quite evolved with a finish that's becoming drier. Really interesting (but not especially sweet) palate. So clean! Intricate and very long. Some dried citrus peel and a little chewiness. Real nerve and interest!

A stunning wine that should continue to beguile us for decades but that is sufficiently sweet and round that it can already be drunk with great pleasure. Excellent acidity and everything tucked in there for the future. Drink: 2004 - 2040.

Mid tawny. Ripe and round and almost a hint of brûlé. Quite open - like molten crème brûlée juice. Quite light and rather simple and sugary. Very readable already. I'm not sure I can see the ageability that Pierre talks about. Drink 2000-2020. Date tasted 13th Feb 08.