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The Rotys' 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys really shows the class of its origins, high up on Gevrey's south side against Ruchottes-Chambertin. A nose of black fruits and underbrush leads to an intense, clear, bright, and silken-textured palate full of beef marrow, black cherry, plum, blueberry and brown spices. A firm chalky, stony character underlies this wine's long finish of deep fruit and dark forest floor. For all of its dark shadings, its super-saturation of ripe fruit, and its obvious extract, this retains an invigorating freshness, elegance, and eloquent clarity. Lock it away though for at least a decade.