Les Carmes Haut Brion 2000

This is a slight upgrade for this wine, which seems to be approaching full maturity but is in no danger of losing fruit or declining for at least another 10 years. It is one of the most elegant wines of the vintage, with an ethereal nose of red and blue fruits, spring flowers, and hints of bay leaf and graphite, while unsmoked cigar tobacco and plum also make an appearance in the strikingly complex aromatics and flavors. The wine is medium-bodied, not a blockbuster by any means, but a wine of terrific balance, purity, symmetry, and style. Drink it over the next 20 years.