Brunello di Montalcino, Fuligni 2004

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is simply awesome in the way it marries a gorgeous expression of ripe, dark fruit and a classic sense of structure. A rich, enveloping wine, it flows onto the palate with masses of black cherries, minerals, spices, tar, new leather and smoke. This is an exceptionally well-balanced and finessed Brunello full of character. The tannins remain rather firm but there is enough sheer density of fruit that opening a bottle on the young side is still likely to be rewarding. Simply put, Fuligni's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Fuligni is a reference-point producer in Montalcino whose wines capture a middle ground between modern and traditional approaches.

Has a wonderful nose of roses, strawberries and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and an aftertaste of berry, cedar and light coffee bean. Caresses every inch of your palate. Very fine, yet chewy. Needs time still. Best after 2010. 2,265 cases made.

Good deep red. Deep, vinous nose combines redcurrant, menthol, graphite, flowers and medicinal herbs. Big, round, rich and savory, showing more soil-inflected saline and mineral flavors than primary fruit. This focused, taut wine is not made in a sweet style but is quite elegant, finishing classically dry, with a broad dusting of tannins and a distinctive stony element. Give this some time in the cellar.