Tokaji Betsek 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji 2019

The 2019 Tokaji Betsek 6-Puttonyos does not quite have the complexity and delineation of the Tamás Single Vineyard, more resinous/oily in style, with hints of linseed oil and grilled walnut. The palate is delightful with wonderfully smooth texture. It is not a heavy Tokaji, light on its feet and nimble. This is quite linear and goes down the throat with ease on the peachy finish. I might well afford this a few months in bottle to allow the aromatics to develop. Drink: 2026-2045

With its pale gold colour modern Tokaji Aszú could seem like a wine of inherent brightness, but this has a very dark and spicy nose with abundant raisined fruit and complex garden herbs character. Very concentrated, but more importantly very deep, like staring down a well. In spite of all this the most striking thing about the wine is the way the tension builds to the suspenseful finale. From a legendary vineyard site with a white volcanic rhyolite soil.

Located within the Mád basin, the Betsek site carries the ripeness and spiciness of its dark soils of clay mixed with white volcanic minerals. Smokiness and minty herbs open up to honeyed dried apricot, canned peach and tangerine aromas. Bitter lime peel and spicy stem ginger add sparks to the great purity and weight on the palate, lifted by bright citrussy acidity. Hedonistic, fleshy stone fruit and yellow fruit carry through the journey, finishing long with luscious dried mango and quince – yet still leaving a fresh impression. Drink: 2026-2046