Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2015

The 2015 Comtes de Champagne is delicate, airy and wonderfully expressive. Lemon peel, white flowers, chalk, mint and slate are finely sculpted in the glass. Light on its feet and crystalline, the 2015 is terrific. There's a touch of savoriness that is typical of the year, but it is not dominant or overpowering. At present, the 2015 shows a bit of tightness from its recent disgorgement, but that should not be an issue in time. Comtes is a real success in a year that was quite challenging. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2025

An impressive showing in this warm vintage, the 2015 Comtes is expressive and open-knit on the nose, with biscuit dough, sweet lemon curd, brown butter and poached pear. The palate has a lively, exuberant mousse and creamy fruit - again all citrus and pear. There is a gentleness here, like butter roasted pears, and ample creamy flavour, to add breadth in both texture and flavour. A supple style of Blanc de Blancs, this can be enjoyed already, though it will age gracefully for 12+ years in bottle.