Pinot Noir Coal River Valley, Tolpuddle Vineyard 2025

This is a wonderfully expressive pinot noir from one of Tasmania's finest sites. 50% whole bunches in '25, and those filigreed amaro and dried spice elements are woven beautifully into the wine. The fruit base is pure dark cherry, damson plum and wild strawberry fruits, with souk-like spice, dried meats, Chinese barbecue shop, shiitake broth, dried citrus rind, meadow flowers and layers of spice and rocky nuance. It's an immediately attractive wine, with blossoming flavours kept in check by fine, sinewy tannins, taut, mineral-laden acidity and a long draw of flavour on the finish, the wine sailing gracefully and true throughout.

This is spicy and savoury, kind of amaro-laced in a way, with dark cherry and plum, dried rose perfume and exotic spices. It’s medium-bodied, a little nutty, quite concentrated, replete with thick ripe tannin, acidity is balanced, finishing with a spray of dried herb and roasted red capsicum spice. A very good release for Tolpuddle. Nice.

The Coal River Valley had a kind 2025: solid winter rain against the long-term average, flowering through warmish conditions that let fruit set cleanly, and rain arriving exactly when it was needed. Summer stayed mild, running cooler overall than 2024, and both yield and quality followed suit. This cuvée has earned its place as one of the wines that put Tasmanian Pinot on the map – a site expression prized for its power and structure as much as its purity. There’s gorgeous presence to the perfume from the outset, and it’s a stunning mix of pure and perfectly ripe raspberry and mashed strawberry bringing a decidedly red-fruited aesthetic, along with lashings of countervailing woody spice in ground nutmeg and clove. Dried violets, subtle rhubarb and allusions of earthy beetroot sit in the finer detail, culminating in brilliant complexity. There’s volume to the texture and power to the fruit on the palate, with a firm and welcome wrap of chalky tannins constricting the mouth and drawing length. There’s a velveteen feel to this wine – it has good depth of fruit while still flowing through the palate, and the chalky tannins and surging acidity provide excellent frame and carry. There’s also a real sense of cohesion and harmony at such a young age. A very strong release.