| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | Italy > Piedmont > Barbaresco |
| Colour | Red |
| Type | Still |
The Gaja 2023 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is the most powerful and broad-shouldered of the three single-vineyard Barbarescos, showing greater fruit weight and a more commanding presence from the outset. Unlike the more reserved Sorì Tildìn, this wine is already remarkably open and generous despite its youth. Dark berry fruit, savory spice and a pronounced note of iron ore define the bouquet, giving way to a palate of impressive richness and structure. Yet even with its added power, the wine remains beautifully balanced and refined, suggesting a long evolution ahead. 2027-2050.
During my visit with Gaia Gaja, she outlined the important long-term investment in the Sorì San Lorenzo vineyard. The oldest section of the vineyard (0.9 hectares) was recently replanted using massal selection. They've also improved drainage and planted buffering rows of approximately 15 different tree species, including fruit trees, to recreate a more diverse ecosystem. These changes are intended to reduce heat stress and sunburn while restoring a woodland effect ("effetto bosco") around the vineyard, an adaptation that will take years to reveal its full impact.
Returning to a more traditional expression of site, the 2023 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo shows the classic character of this vineyard. Medium-bodied, it offers notes of juniper, currants, cranberries, and brambly earth. The tannins have deeper structure and density compared to the other crus, giving the wine impressive backbone and longevity while retaining balance and freshness. Drink 2027-2057.
The 2023 Sorì San Lorenzo has balsamic aromas of camphor that underpin ripe berry, violet and dark spice. While this is the most structured of the firm's Barbarescos, the 2023 shows more restraint and is slightly lighter on its feet when compared to recent vintages, featuring juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, star anise and mineral notes of crushed stone. Closely-knit, refined tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it lifted. Drink 2028–2038. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe
